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Old 01-10-2010, 08:37 AM   #1
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Default Replacing front crank seal and fitting speedy sleeve to hamonic balancer

Hey I'm gonna do this on the weekend well have a go anyway. Just wondering if there are any tricks I need to watch out for. Dad flips out about the possibilities of things going wrong. Another friend said it's an easy job and will take a hour to complete.
So I'm a bit lost but still up for the challenge I'm sick of the oil leak

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Old 01-10-2010, 09:06 AM   #2
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I replaced the harmonic balancer on mine, with a brand newy cost me 120 bucks.

Best way to get to it would be to remove the radiator and thermos and possibly the front bar, so you have plenty of room to move about and you can see what your doing

Then you will need to find a way of stopping the balancer from moving while you tying to undo it, either get some one at the bell housing with a spanner or something to jam the fly wheel so it dosent move, unless theres a locating hole u put something trough which holds it.
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Posted by Xcabbi, Does it slap or rattle? Rattle is more to do with timing chains and tensioners. Slap is more to do with lifters, rings, bearings or GENIII boat anchors
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Old 01-10-2010, 09:24 AM   #3
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Also isnt there a difference between the speedy sleave, as that actualy goes over the shaft to prevent the harmonic balancer from having to much play, not to actually seal it,

You need a front main seal, which is only around 12 to 15 dollar mark.

But yeh if you plan to do the sleave as well get a seal as well,


I think theres a thread some where ill search for, been awhile since i did the balancer

WOOPS, i just rememberd you will also need a HARMONIC BALANCER REMOVAL TOOL, to get the bugger off,

Its like a 3 prong thing, the prongs sit in the small groves or slots inside the hamonic balancer and you have a sliding handle. so when you pull the handle back towards your self, the balancer should start to come off, or just use a rubber mallet or something a little more sloid and just slowly tap the balancer for each side and that should do it as well, Slowly lol
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Posted by Xcabbi, Does it slap or rattle? Rattle is more to do with timing chains and tensioners. Slap is more to do with lifters, rings, bearings or GENIII boat anchors

Last edited by frd906; 01-10-2010 at 09:33 AM.
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Old 01-10-2010, 11:19 AM   #4
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Yeah I have the seal already. And I have a balancer removal tool so. I'll see how we go.
Luckily I've got a 2nd car so if I run into problems I'm not stranded

So a speedy sleeve may not fix my problem?
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Old 01-10-2010, 11:26 AM   #5
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It will fix it for a while, but it will prelong the life of the balancer for abit longer,

How much movment is there?

If i was you id replace the harmonic balancer while its all apart, so you dont have to do it a second time down the track
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Posted by Xcabbi, Does it slap or rattle? Rattle is more to do with timing chains and tensioners. Slap is more to do with lifters, rings, bearings or GENIII boat anchors
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Old 01-10-2010, 11:53 AM   #6
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While removing the harmonic balancer, if you find you can't get the nut undone, put a socket on it, with a breaker bar leaning against the passenger side chassis rail. Quickly turn it over and switch it off (don't start the car), and it will crack the nut. I know it sounds dodgy, but it sure as hell works!
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Old 01-10-2010, 12:50 PM   #7
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^^ Hahaha! Genius!
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Old 01-10-2010, 01:08 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Day-mow
Hey I'm gonna do this on the weekend well have a go anyway. Just wondering if there are any tricks I need to watch out for. Dad flips out about the possibilities of things going wrong. Another friend said it's an easy job and will take a hour to complete.
So I'm a bit lost but still up for the challenge I'm sick of the oil leak
You sure it is the seal is leaking it might be chain tensioner behind
the power steering bracket.if it is a 6 cylinder.
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Old 01-10-2010, 01:20 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheInterceptor
^^ Hahaha! Genius!
I had a couple of people tell me this method, and when I did the serpentine conversion on the EA, I was impressed with how much easier it made the job
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Old 01-10-2010, 01:43 PM   #10
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Yeah I'm 98% sure it's the balancer. I've herd that's how to crack the nut so I rekn I'll give that a go.
Sounds like a speedy sleeve isn't proven I'll get a balancer.

Im feeling pretty confident. I've knocked off work early so I'm gonna start this arvo.
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Old 02-10-2010, 10:15 AM   #11
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What type of puller did u guys use? Every puller I've tried doesnt fit. The big 3 claw type won't fit in because my ac condenser is in the way. Suggestions?
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Old 02-10-2010, 10:45 AM   #12
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We tried using that one on mine but in the end we used a hammer and slowly tapped it off
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Posted by Xcabbi, Does it slap or rattle? Rattle is more to do with timing chains and tensioners. Slap is more to do with lifters, rings, bearings or GENIII boat anchors
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Old 02-10-2010, 01:41 PM   #13
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Didn't want to hear that hahaha. Long screw driver?
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Old 02-10-2010, 03:08 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Day-mow
Didn't want to hear that hahaha. Long screw driver?
I used a small 3 jaw puller from supercheap, but had to 'modify' it slightly by grinding all the edges down so it just fits into the balancer. Cracking the bolt with a breaker bar or torque wrench resting on the ground works suprisingly well.
You only need to remove the intake snorkel and thermo's.
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Old 02-10-2010, 03:53 PM   #15
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Don't use a screwdriver or any other lever. You'll end up pushing and cracking the timing case, big trouble. The genuine puller has special bolts that slot into each posiiton behind the pulley. I made my own puller, using the new pulley as the template. I think 10 mm diameter bolts (16 mm head) were a good fit. Just drill the right bolt holes in a bit of steel and slowly do up the bolts evenly. It was bit fiddly but then you only use it once.
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Old 02-10-2010, 04:24 PM   #16
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umm my old balancer never had the location holes nor did my new one
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Posted by Xcabbi, Does it slap or rattle? Rattle is more to do with timing chains and tensioners. Slap is more to do with lifters, rings, bearings or GENIII boat anchors
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Old 02-10-2010, 05:00 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frd906
umm my old balancer never had the location holes nor did my new one
snap.. im getting a large puller from my dads it should be here 2morro evening. i rekn what i'll end up doing is putting that in and cutting the thread so its short enough to fit in with out taking out the condenser.

if it needs to be trimmed on the claws i guess i'll do that to
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Old 02-10-2010, 05:02 PM   #18
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Not holes, the long curved slots, if you look at the back, you will see where the bolt heads sort of locks in. First the bolt head inserts in the wide part of the slot, you move it along the slot and then twist and engage it in the narrow end of the slot (hard to describe, but you need to shape the bolt head to make it work properly). I just copied one I saw somewhere.
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Old 02-10-2010, 05:12 PM   #19
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the slots that are right next to the centre? you couldn't get an ant in there if you lined it with honey
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Old 02-10-2010, 06:21 PM   #20
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The slots are made for a puller.
Like I said, if you look in from the back, you will see where the bolt heads or special shaped puller fingers are suppose to lock in. Buy a new balancer, then buy or make a puller that fits it.
If you pull on the outside pulley part of the balancer using a standard puller, you will distort and tear the rubber and ruin the balancer, which is alright if you are replacing it.
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Old 02-10-2010, 10:21 PM   #21
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Sooooo because I've brought a new balancer what you posted isn't heaps important
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Old 02-10-2010, 10:34 PM   #22
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if you cant get it off even with a puller, just uses a rubber mallet, fairly sloid one and slowly go around it tapping it out,
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Posted by Xcabbi, Does it slap or rattle? Rattle is more to do with timing chains and tensioners. Slap is more to do with lifters, rings, bearings or GENIII boat anchors
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Old 03-10-2010, 12:50 AM   #23
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Pretty sure I'm going to be doing this anyway. I have a new balancer so I don't ry care what happens to the old one. I was told to be careful of the bearings tho if I chip it out
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Old 03-10-2010, 10:42 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Day-mow
Sooooo because I've brought a new balancer what you posted isn't heaps important
Yeh, If you can find a puller that is wide enough to fit on the outside of the balancer, and short enough so that you don't have to remove radiator and condenser. Unlikely. You also need plenty extra room to withdraw the balancer off the shaft about 50-100 mm.
You can't go slowly around it tapping it out, there is an engine behind it. And of course the fit on the shaft is very precise and very tight, so the balancer has to be pulled off very evenly. Don't be tempted to try and lever it off.
And don't forget to put some sealant on the keyway when you install the new balancer. Enough said. Good luck.
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Old 03-10-2010, 10:50 AM   #25
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Hic, double post.
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Old 03-10-2010, 04:14 PM   #26
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you need a small puller like this one, small enough to fit in your hand. The three 'arms' fit into the 3 slots on the balancer. Use your new balancer to work out how it fits.
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Old 03-10-2010, 07:04 PM   #27
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I have one of them
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Old 05-10-2010, 10:19 PM   #28
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Ok so I have my 150mm puller but I can't get 3 jaws on it anywhere unless I take out th crank angle sensor. If I take this out is it going to cause any major problems or anything like that? Are there any tips I need to no about taking the sensor out?
If I can get in there I think I can get it off.
I'm to scared to leaver it off because I'm scared I'll crack the crank case but I think that's the 2nd most effective way.

Also looked on the back of my NEW balancer and there isn't any type of groove can get a photo for proof if you really want.
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Old 05-10-2010, 11:20 PM   #29
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Remove sensor just in case you might pull the balancer out on a angle and damage it.
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Old 05-10-2010, 11:24 PM   #30
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Yeah removed that. Balancer is out but.


I broke the TDC marker. This means engine out and new crank case on yeah?
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