EF XR6 lack of power when cold, bad econ etc.

[AshMan]

Hey guys,

I've noticed lately that the old girl is a bit doughy on launching...

Made some observations today.

After an extending long drive (in peak hour traffic) the trans tunnel started to get a bit hot on the drivers side. After it started to get hot, like 40-50 degrees, it started to go like a rocket, scrabbling on launch chirping gears etc... probably worth noting its auto...

After high revs, or braking hard/suddenly, the car goes into very low RPM and feels like its going to stall (doesn't though)

Seemed like a totally different car when its hot.

I was thinking maybe the thermostat is too cold for the car, or is stuck open (like, the car isn't 'warming up' as such.)

Never seems to get above the N in normal.

The car uses a bit of fuel (300-400 k's to a tank of optimax).

Just wondering if maybe a lightbulb comes on in someones head as to what, if any, problem might be.

The car was serviced about 2000km ago, new plugs, synthetic oil, k&n oil filter, new air filter... was acting like this before service but is getting more obvious now as I learn the car. (only had it a month).

Anyway, I think there is plenty of info here cheers

Sorry for the long post, and thanks heaps in advance.



Ash..

[TwistedEL]

Just take the thermostat housing off and check if its jammed open
And stick some injector cleaner in it (or do it properly)
But if it's not getting hot check out the thermostat as you said.

[AshMan]

I might pick up a thermostat tomorrow.

Whats a better temperature to use?

[TwistedEL]

Probably no point swapping it if it's not jammed open. Just take off the housing and check

[vegabass]

Mine is the opposite....it goes harder when its colder...but i dont like pushing cold engines...

[AshMan]

I pulled out the thermostat, wouldn't close all the way, so I soaked it in petrol for about 10 mins then rinsed with metho then distilled water...

The thermo mechanical bit moves alot easier now, but will replace it next week just to be sure.

Car warms up alot quicker now and has heaps more balls...

At the moment I'm concerned the o2 sensor is ИИИИed.

Whats a good way to test it?

[chich]

Try reseting the ECU. Disconnet the positive battery terminal for 30mins then hook it up again.

[oyob2003]

Hi Chich, Could you please explain what reseting the ECU does.

[walker]

could your cat be starting to block up, just a thought

[walker]

just a thought could your cat be begining to block up

[chich]

Originally Posted by oyob2003

Hi Chich, Could you please explain what reseting the ECU does.

When the ECU is reset it logs your driving inputs for the first 100 or so starts, giving it the ability to adapt to your style of driving. My EF spends 90% of the time in peak hour traffic and i notice that over time it become less responsive and pretty doughy, however when i reset the ECU it feels alot better. I've also noticed that it becomes alot more economical when its reset. Upon reset it does 450km with 58-60L however over time this will comes down to 380-400km using the same amount of juice. My driving style doesn't vary too much because as i stated earlier, 90% of the time its in peak hour traffic. To be honest it works well for me - hense the reason why i've incorporated an ECU reset into my 5,000km services.

[1TUFFUTE]

is it good to do the reset thing if u have a big cam or will it not run???

[AshMan]

I will do the ECU reset tomorrow.

As for the cat, it is always a possibilty.

I will get a pressure guage and measure it at the o2 sensor hole, before the cat.

What should it read if there is no restriction?

I will go for a quick drive with no cat (on private property) to see the difference.

I'd rather measure the pressure though, I like numbers

[niko]

Originally Posted by 1TUFFUTE

is it good to do the reset thing if u have a big cam or will it not run???

get a better ecu, ie: xr or ghia one suited to tickford running gear.