Welcome to the Australian Ford Forums forum.

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and inserts advertising. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members, respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features without post based advertising banners. Registration is simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!

If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact us.

Please Note: All new registrations go through a manual approval queue to keep spammers out. This is checked twice each day so there will be a delay before your registration is activated.

Go Back   Australian Ford Forums > Club and Speciality Forums > Forum Community Car Clubs > AU Falcon.com.au

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 02-06-2007, 02:11 AM   #1
ST
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
 
ST's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Melbourne - Eastern Suburbs
Posts: 956
Default Installing new instrument cluster face(?)

Hi i'm new to the forums and to modifying in general. I've got my first car (1999 silhoette au I S-Pak Falcon) and i'm starting off with giving the interior a bit more flare.

So I bought a silver instrument cluster face (i'm not sure if that is exactly what it is called, but thats all I know it as) off ebay to replace the standard black one. Basically the face with all the gauges, speedo and such.

Now I was wondering if anyone has got a guide on how to do this and how to do it properly? I'm just worried about removing the needles for all the gauges etc.

Thanks for any help,
-RTSW

(By the way, my username is supposed to be Ride The Solar Winds. Is there anyway I can get it fixed?)

ST is offline   Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
Old 02-06-2007, 02:25 AM   #2
51OAU
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
 
51OAU's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 637
Default

hey mate, i don't know how to do it at all, but theres alot of people asking this latly. Maybe since u are going to do it.. would u be able to do up a step by step tutorial on how to do it with pics??? i will be looking at doing this soon also..

Thanks soz to be kinda off topic
51OAU is offline   Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
Old 02-06-2007, 11:39 AM   #3
ST
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
 
ST's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Melbourne - Eastern Suburbs
Posts: 956
Default

Yeah I should be able to do that no problems.

I'll be installing it next week sometime.
ST is offline   Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
Old 02-06-2007, 08:57 PM   #4
Umineko
Karasu
 
Umineko's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Melbourne Vic
Posts: 208
Default

Ok to do this....
1/ remove the 2 black caps that cover the screws at the top of the cluster and remove screws.

2/ insert a couple of allen keys into the screw holes making sure you have them into the fascia not just the clear lens and pull the cluster forward, sometimes helps to reach up through the fusebox hole and push from behind (long thin arms help here)

3/ once the cluster comes forward reach behind and disconnect the 2 (or 3 depending on what model you have) plugs that are attached at the back of the cluster.

4/ withdraw completely from vehicle.

5/ remover the black felt tape that covers the mounting tabs on the bottom and stick it to the main body of the cluster for storage then push in the tabs on the top of the lens (not the fascia) starting from one end and working towards the other (the lens and fascia cannot be removed as one unit without risking breaking it)... just push the tabs untill they sit under the mounting slots do not try to completely remove it at this stage.
6/ using a flat blade driver gently (read very very gently) lever up the clear tabs on the bottom of the cluster so that they clear the locating tabs, again working from one end to the other. when this is done remove the clear lens.

7/ remove the fascia using the same method as described for removing the clear lens with the exception that there are only 2 tabs on the bottom.

8/ Remove the instrument panel fascia.

9/gently turn each gauge needle in turn to it's stop and using a twisting / pulling motion remove the needles from the gauges, the needles can be very tight and some force can be needed to remove them, however great care is also required as they can be quite fragile, the needles plug into wire rods that connect them to the gauge bodies mounted in the back of the cluster, occasionaly the wire rod will remain attached to the needle rather than the gauge, don't panic it wont damage anything but you will need to take some extra care when re-installing them.

10/ Carefully lift one end of the instrument face sheet and peel upwards (taking care not to bend it to much) and remove from cluster.

11/ Line up the 2 locator pins at the top of the gauge cluster with the holes in the top of the new gauge sheet and press new sheet into place.

12/ re-install the gauge needles being careful to line each one up with the zero stop of the gauge, some twisting back and forth may be needed to get the needles to sit where they did before.

13/ plug the cluster back into the car and turn ign on without starting the car speedometer and tacho needles should now move to their "zero" position...Take note of any variation, switch off ign and adjust as needed.

14/ when first powered up the gauge cluster will display a cluster ID code in the odometer display IE Falc for Falcon, Fair for Fairmont / Fairlane and LTD to restore original odometer and trip meter displays simply switch ign on / off / on, and the original readings should be displayed.

15/ remove from vehicle again and firstly re-install the panel fascia by lining up the location tabs at the top and pressing the fascia down (check that lower tabs are seated correctly and that the fasia is seated correctly over the locating tabs around the clusters rim).

16/ re-install the clear lens cover using the same method as used for the fascia taking particular care to make sure all the bottom tabs are correctly seated over their locating pins.

17/ Replace the black felt tape in its original position.

18/ Install cluster back into car and replace black screw cover caps.

19/ As there may be some variation in the position of the gauge needles from their original location, it's advisable that you place the cluster into diagnostic mode and compare the digital speed reading with the value shown by the needle, if the variance is greater than 2% it is recomended that you remove the clear lens and adjust the needle to compensate.

Hope this helps

cheers
Umineko is offline   Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
Old 03-06-2007, 12:10 AM   #5
crakrz
T3 TE50 Blueprint
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 934
Technical Contributor: For members who share their technical expertise. - Issue reason: Craig has shown and shared an outstanding amount of knowledge in the field of Tuning. Craig is only to happy to share with anyone that asks his knowledge on the EEC tuning system, in particularly in the use of Moates Quarterhorse and Binary Editor. 
Default

Can i ask how you put the digital display into diagnostic mode?
crakrz is offline   Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
Old 03-06-2007, 02:41 AM   #6
Umineko
Karasu
 
Umineko's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Melbourne Vic
Posts: 208
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by crakrz
Can i ask how you put the digital display into diagnostic mode?
You can indeed, this was covered in a thread not long ago... have a look at...

http://www.fordforums.com.au/showthread.php?t=98363
Umineko is offline   Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
Old 03-06-2007, 11:31 AM   #7
crakrz
T3 TE50 Blueprint
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 934
Technical Contributor: For members who share their technical expertise. - Issue reason: Craig has shown and shared an outstanding amount of knowledge in the field of Tuning. Craig is only to happy to share with anyone that asks his knowledge on the EEC tuning system, in particularly in the use of Moates Quarterhorse and Binary Editor. 
Default

Thankyou
crakrz is offline   Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
Old 03-06-2007, 06:09 PM   #8
ST
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
 
ST's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Melbourne - Eastern Suburbs
Posts: 956
Default

Thanks a lot Umineko, exactly what I was after! Can't wait to install it.
ST is offline   Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
Old 03-06-2007, 06:39 PM   #9
FGII-XR6
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
 
FGII-XR6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Salamander Bay
Posts: 5,427
Default

just make sure the speedo has the same range some people try to put a 240 K face on a 22oK culster resulting in an inaccurate speedo reading. you can not change this without geting an instrument tech to re callibrate the speedo
FGII-XR6 is offline   Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
Old 03-06-2007, 10:52 PM   #10
Umineko
Karasu
 
Umineko's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Melbourne Vic
Posts: 208
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by 8lueoval
hey mate, i don't know how to do it at all, but theres alot of people asking this latly. Maybe since u are going to do it.. would u be able to do up a step by step tutorial on how to do it with pics??? i will be looking at doing this soon also..

Thanks soz to be kinda off topic
Could do this for you if it's something people want, I dunno who decides what does or does not warrant tutorials etc on here... Have also recently installed head rest mounted LCD screens into my car would be happy to write that one up as well
Umineko is offline   Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
Old 25-06-2007, 07:10 PM   #11
Bucknaked
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
 
Bucknaked's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: ACT
Posts: 11,647
Default

I'm at point 2 at the moment. Not sure I have the allen key is the right part. Is there a trick as it seems to be very tight fit
Bucknaked is offline   Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
Old 25-06-2007, 08:13 PM   #12
JC
Miami Pilot
Donating Member2
 
JC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: ACT
Posts: 21,701
Tech Writer: Recognition for the technical writers of AFF - Issue reason: Writing tech articles 
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bucknaked
I'm at point 2 at the moment. Not sure I have the allen key is the right part. Is there a trick as it seems to be very tight fit
Yep - explain your avatar, and I'll explain how to remove the cluster.
__________________
-----------------------------------------------------------------
The Hammer: FG GTE | 376rwkw | 1/4 mile 11.793 @ 119.75mph 1.733 60' (4408lb)
1 of 60 FG MK1 335 GTEs (1 of 118 FG Mk 1 & 2 335 GTEs).
Mods: Tune, HSD/ShockWorks, black GT335 19” staggered replicas with 245 & 275/35/19 Michelin Pilot sport 5s

Daily: BF2 Fairmont Ghia I6 ZF, machine face GT335 19” staggered Replicas with 245s and 275s, Bilsteins & Kings

FPV 335 build stats: <click here>

Ford Performance Club ACT
JC is offline   Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
Old 25-06-2007, 08:56 PM   #13
Duffman
Oh Yeah!
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Manhattan, NY
Posts: 1,023
Default

First thing is if its one of the ford silver faces from the TE/S series and you have the stock cluster then it wont fit due to the volt/oil pressure gauge.

Also forget the allen keys much easier way is to undo the two top screws and then take out your fuse box cover (below the steering wheel to the right) if you look up there you can see the back of your cluster. Put a huge screw driver up and leaver it forwards to get it out, its much easier and your less likely to crack/scratch the face when doing it.
__________________
Oh no! Duffman can't breath! Oh, yeah!
Duffman is offline   Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
Old 25-06-2007, 09:59 PM   #14
Bucknaked
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
 
Bucknaked's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: ACT
Posts: 11,647
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Duffman
First thing is if its one of the ford silver faces from the TE/S series and you have the stock cluster then it wont fit due to the volt/oil pressure gauge.

Also forget the allen keys much easier way is to undo the two top screws and then take out your fuse box cover (below the steering wheel to the right) if you look up there you can see the back of your cluster. Put a huge screw driver up and leaver it forwards to get it out, its much easier and your less likely to crack/scratch the face when doing it.
There was an easier way. I went to JC's house and he did it for me. :hihi:

I've got the blue XR cluster and I'm going to replace it with a silver one I got from Ebay.

Thanks for your help JC & Duffman.
Bucknaked is offline   Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
Old 26-06-2007, 11:27 AM   #15
amiers
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Brisbane
Posts: 976
Default

just my 2 cents worth. with the 220/240 readout i had the problem and when i went to get it calibrated they wanted an arm and leg. so i overlayed the 220 over the 240 and noted the difference. i then put the needle on below the zero the same difference, it's about 1 increment. i then had a speedo check done and i was within 4klm's per hour.
amiers is offline   Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
Old 26-06-2007, 08:15 PM   #16
Bucknaked
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
 
Bucknaked's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: ACT
Posts: 11,647
Default

Cluster is done. The Mrs found an easy way to remove the needs in about 10 seconds flat. I cringed
Bucknaked is offline   Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
Old 26-06-2007, 08:42 PM   #17
JC
Miami Pilot
Donating Member2
 
JC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: ACT
Posts: 21,701
Tech Writer: Recognition for the technical writers of AFF - Issue reason: Writing tech articles 
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bucknaked
Cluster is done. The Mrs found an easy way to remove the needs in about 10 seconds flat. I cringed
Do the needles all line up properly etc Got any pics?
__________________
-----------------------------------------------------------------
The Hammer: FG GTE | 376rwkw | 1/4 mile 11.793 @ 119.75mph 1.733 60' (4408lb)
1 of 60 FG MK1 335 GTEs (1 of 118 FG Mk 1 & 2 335 GTEs).
Mods: Tune, HSD/ShockWorks, black GT335 19” staggered replicas with 245 & 275/35/19 Michelin Pilot sport 5s

Daily: BF2 Fairmont Ghia I6 ZF, machine face GT335 19” staggered Replicas with 245s and 275s, Bilsteins & Kings

FPV 335 build stats: <click here>

Ford Performance Club ACT
JC is offline   Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
Old 26-06-2007, 08:55 PM   #18
Bucknaked
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
 
Bucknaked's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: ACT
Posts: 11,647
Default

Pics in the build thread.

Needs line up pretty good.
Bucknaked is offline   Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
Reply


Forum Jump


All times are GMT +11. The time now is 02:32 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Other than what is legally copyrighted by the respective owners, this site is copyright www.fordforums.com.au
Positive SSL