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Old 04-10-2007, 02:42 PM   #31
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With lubrication being such a critical component of combustion engines, I find it hard to comprehend why many people will buy any oil, as long as its cheap, and go for the $30 filter (thats if it gets changed at all), yet see great value in (investing) $3000 on a set of sick mags.

The majority of engine wear/damage occurs between startup and warmup thus a oil with a low startup viscosity or (flow rate of oil at atmospheric temperature), (thats the number that precedes the W) will maximise engine life.

You can either buy a mineral based oil or opt for the synthetic variety, synthetic oil wasn't very good when it first started to be produced but most of that has now changed.

Mineral based oil helps reduce engine temperature but breaks down quicker then synthetic, it also has a higher cold viscosity.

Synthetic oil will last longer between changes and has better flow propertys, engine heat can be higher though now with many of the new preimum blends this is not the case, there is also the (magnetic) oils which stick to metal surfaces that see friction and always have a film around engine components rather then seep to the sump.

Last time I changed my oil on the XR8 I used castrol magnatec.
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Old 04-10-2007, 02:49 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XR8Master
Last time I changed my oil on the XR8 I used castrol magnatec.
After your great spiel on engine wear I find it very ironic that this was your last statement?
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Old 04-10-2007, 02:59 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by b2tf
After your great spiel on engine wear I find it very ironic that this was your last statement?
Ha ha ha. Ain't that the truth!!

Anyway, if you find a good 10w30 or 40 oil then just use that.

Or sell the AU and get something that doesn't need any deliberation about oils, like a push bike.....
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Old 04-10-2007, 03:04 PM   #34
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I use canola oil!!! Nice and light.
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Old 04-10-2007, 03:36 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XR8Master
With lubrication being such a critical component of combustion engines, I find it hard to comprehend why many people will buy any oil, as long as its cheap, and go for the $30 filter (thats if it gets changed at all), yet see great value in (investing) $3000 on a set of sick mags.

The majority of engine wear/damage occurs between startup and warmup thus a oil with a low startup viscosity or (flow rate of oil at atmospheric temperature), (thats the number that precedes the W) will maximise engine life.

You can either buy a mineral based oil or opt for the synthetic variety, synthetic oil wasn't very good when it first started to be produced but most of that has now changed.

Mineral based oil helps reduce engine temperature but breaks down quicker then synthetic, it also has a higher cold viscosity.

Synthetic oil will last longer between changes and has better flow propertys, engine heat can be higher though now with many of the new preimum blends this is not the case, there is also the (magnetic) oils which stick to metal surfaces that see friction and always have a film around engine components rather then seep to the sump.

Last time I changed my oil on the XR8 I used castrol magnatec.
I for one am not too fussed about the brand of oil.

As long as it's not utter cheap crap, and it's changed regularly it doesn't matter too much to me- it's not like a stock AU of any kind has such a highly strung motor that requires such paranoia. And realistically I only ever keep cars for a few years at a time, so engine wear is never a drastic consideration for me.
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Old 04-10-2007, 04:00 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by private9
I for one am not too fussed about the brand of oil.
Me neither, although I try to keep to the one brand/grade (old habits die hard).

A little light reading for the paranoid http://www.xs11.com/stories/croil96.htm

The article is 10 years old but there have been zero quantum leaps forward in motor oil in that time, regardless of what the advertisers tell us.
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Old 04-10-2007, 04:05 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by b2tf
After your great spiel on engine wear I find it very ironic that this was your last statement?
You think its crap ? I couldn't afford the 0-40 Edge one because I spent $3000 on some awesome mags
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Old 04-10-2007, 04:08 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XR8Master
You think its crap ?
That's the impression I got! To me though, you raved on about not using cheap oil, but magnatec isn't exactly big $ stuff.
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Old 04-10-2007, 05:38 PM   #39
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Man, everybody just needs to take in a few deep breaths here! LOL!

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Old 04-10-2007, 05:49 PM   #40
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Look ... try and keep as close to what the manual mentions ... also ... if you can ... replace it a little more often than what the manual stipulates ... your engine will love you for it.

Me ... I change my oil once a month ... and my oil filter once every 2 months .. cheap insurance really.

Mind you ... i am doing around 1,000km a week ... sometimes more than that ... so it is worth it for me. I am so used to changing it oil now ... it only takes 10 minutes max to do.
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Old 04-10-2007, 05:54 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XR8Master
You think its crap ? I couldn't afford the 0-40 Edge one because I spent $3000 on some awesome mags
same, my mags were $2k so I havent changed my oil for 40,000kms.
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Old 04-10-2007, 06:37 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JC
No it wouldn't matter. usually there's a sticker on the inside of the windscreen that mechanics put there to tell you when the next oil change should be - it should also have the brand/type of oil last used (well, my XR8 did, as I used to use HPR10, which comes with a sticker on the bottle for that very purpose).
OK cool. It has a Penrite sticker on it so i guess using HP10 should be ok then.

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Old 04-10-2007, 06:57 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by b2tf
same, my mags were $2k so I havent changed my oil for 40,000kms.
welllllll, my brother has done exactly that. He uses PM (I think) oil and has not had a complete oil change for over 50,000 kms.

However, he changes the filter at the recommended interval and monitors his engine and engine oil condition by oil analysis.

The downside is that it costs more to do it that way than it does to change the oil regularly but as the analysis kits don't cost him anything he's happy to do it that way.
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Old 04-10-2007, 07:38 PM   #44
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I saw an EA with 180,000km that probably had never had more than one oil change since the warranty expired, just top-ups. I was looking over my neighbour's shoulder as he lifted the rocker cover off to reveal.... a seized & snapped rocker arm!

This was his son's 1st car, he'd had it for 2 weeks and had changed the oil a week before. The rocker cover was coated with sludge inside, with huge buildup in every corner.
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Old 04-10-2007, 08:10 PM   #45
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A guy I used to work with had an AU1 company car from new. It had it's first service, and then never had one again. (levels were checked every now and then, and topped up as necessary). It was sold about 2-3 years ago with around 220k on the clock, and ran ok, didn't smoke massively etc.
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Old 04-10-2007, 10:27 PM   #46
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i change mine every 5,000 whether its gold in colour or black, its always clean as though
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Old 04-10-2007, 10:54 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by private9
It was sold about 2-3 years ago with around 220k on the clock, and ran ok, didn't smoke massively etc.
It'd be a time bomb then.
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Old 04-10-2007, 11:07 PM   #48
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sly, pretty much, wouldnt wanna own that thing!
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Old 04-10-2007, 11:46 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sly
It'd be a time bomb then.
Yeah, but who cares - he got about 6 years of trouble free, nicely neglected abuse out of it, and then because it was a novated lease, sold the piece of rubbish at the end for a few grand (body and interior were just as neglected), and he was very happy!

Seriously though, I've owned a few crappers in my time, and although I don't neglect cars, I have knowingly bought some pretty neglected piles of rubbish off family, friends etc, and you'd be surprised with just how much abuse and neglect most cars can cope with.
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Old 04-10-2007, 11:48 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GSH
sly, pretty much, wouldnt wanna own that thing!
Second that! In addition to the strict service schedule, it got washed at least every year or two, and if memory serves, the interior was never cleaned.
He used to do a fair bit of country driving in it, and managed to bash in the sills on both sides. All in all, combined with the fact that it was a white AU1 forte, made this a pretty nice ride!
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Old 04-10-2007, 11:57 PM   #51
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Go the HPR, it's good stuff for the $$.
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Old 05-10-2007, 12:10 AM   #52
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I herd TITAN oil is very good? Alot of real high performance cars 4-500hp use it
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Old 05-10-2007, 12:20 AM   #53
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Just out of curiousity guys, i had a look at some Penrite today and the HPR10 is a 10w50.....Im going to start changing my own oil from now on aswell is the 10w50 alright?
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Old 05-10-2007, 12:30 AM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GSH
Just out of curiousity guys, i had a look at some Penrite today and the HPR10 is a 10w50.....Im going to start changing my own oil from now on aswell is the 10w50 alright?
yep would be fine in an 8.
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