Definitive AU1 to AU2/AU3 brake upgrade thread - Page 2

Grug1 · 29-02-2012, 09:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lostdude

Yeap the links and i think the bars a different as well, you need the one from au2 or later and i think are few extra holes a needed to be drilled.

Bumping up this thread, great resource and big thumbs up to the OP.

A local wrecker I contacted has done several of these upgrades on AU series I's and suggested going with the EB swaybar and links rather than AUII or later swaybar.

has anyone attempted this upgrade with the EB bar??

DEATH_INC · 15-01-2016, 02:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Grug1

A local wrecker I contacted has done several of these upgrades on AU series I's and suggested going with the EB swaybar and links rather than AUII or later swaybar.

has anyone attempted this upgrade with the EB bar??

Just thought this needed bringing up again as I spent over an hour looking for the answer;
The EB bar can be used, but it isn't the ideal solution. It bolts to the factory AU1 swaybar mounts, but it doesn't curve outwards towards the wheel. It requires drilling a new hole in the lower arm for the link to attach through, in the 'web' of the arm near where the hole the abs wire clip goes through, which of course reduces the effectiveness of the swaybar, due to the changes in leverage ratio applied.

I used AU2/3 arms/bar.

I just upgraded the front of My AU1 xr8 to 322's with slotted discs and Znoelli Hi-temp pads, a couple of things worth mentioning I think...
If you have an XR8 it has a 27mm swaybar...most of the non-XR's only have a 23mm bar (I got an aftermarket 30mm one after I noticed ....)
I used new BA lines and the original bolt on brake line brackets from the BA (no cable ties

) and it all fitted together perfectly, the Pedal is no spongier than before either.
I did it comfortably in a shade under 5 hours-drive in drive out...though I did use the hoist at work and a power bleeder...

mik · 02-11-2009, 10:25 PM

i may have missed it but if a bloke fitted the slightly bigger ba rotors and calipers on his series 2 xr6 would there be enough clearance for the standard xr6 225/50/16 wheels?

blownv8au · 29-02-2012, 10:45 AM

I don't think he knows what hes talking about. eb sway bar is the same setup as au1.

Grug1 · 29-02-2012, 10:49 AM

Figured as much, thanks for the reply

Grug1 · 06-03-2012, 04:23 PM

Thanks to all for the clarification

superroo · 01-03-2012, 12:32 AM

I do remember talk a few year back (before I wrote this), that it could be done with an eb sway bar because you don't need to drill any holes for mounting the sway bar.
Now, I don't know which mounts were used (au1 vs eb), but I seam to remember "the monty" or "casper" mentioning it some where.

Cheers

blownv8au · 01-03-2012, 12:27 PM

What about the link bars though? i might have to go and look under my ute again cause i maybe wrong. i thought there was a reason for using the au2 lower control arms? au2 lower control arm has no provision for au1 eb style links only a right angle block for the z style link. i think i remember wondering why au2 lowers were required. I will have a look at this as i may have written off grug1s' wrecker before having a look and just going off memory. sorry mate will look first and answer later from now on.

superroo · 01-03-2012, 07:37 PM

Well, this is the thread I remember:
http://www.fordforums.com.au/showthread.php?t=89164

And photo's of a car running a eb sway bar:
http://www.fordforums.com.au/showpos...&postcount=271
http://www.fordforums.com.au/showpos...&postcount=272
http://www.fordforums.com.au/showpos...&postcount=273
http://www.fordforums.com.au/showpos...&postcount=293

Cheers

Reaper8 · 02-03-2012, 01:06 PM

drill the extra holes (its not hard) then you have more sway bar upgrade options available.

bunnyr31 · 20-03-2012, 01:14 PM

can you just use all ba parts under there like or does it have to be au s2/3 then ba brake calipers and rotors? if you own a xr8 do you have to get series 2/3 xr8 parts? the swaybar mount is that a au part? sorry to threadmine.

jamess · 30-03-2012, 02:07 AM

I have a further question. I have gone and bought a complete AU 2 setup and also BF XR8 calipers and rotors.

The AU II struts and springs are off a 6 cyl car. Do I use BF struts?

They are going on a AUI TE 50. Do Zi put AU grade springs on BF struts?

blownv8au · 30-03-2012, 08:53 AM

Just use the struts and springs in you car already.

ebxr82nv · 30-03-2012, 11:20 AM

Au and b series struts are the same. The only other thing you might need is the caliper brackets to suit the bigger stuff.

jamess · 30-03-2012, 10:37 PM

Thanks guys.

webbiegareth · 02-04-2012, 11:22 AM

Has anyone had a mechanic fit the 2nd hand AU2/3 parts to their car? There's no way I could do this myself. I'm pretty sure over time I could find all the parts needed for cheap prices (using Ebay and the for-sale areas on forums like this), but I just can't fit it.

What realistic price would I be looking at (preferably in Melbourne?)

I can't work out if it's really worth the hassle and $$$$'s for installation for the upgrade...

Plus, I think I need 16" rims? At least I read that earlier. We have the stock 15" alloys with our AU1. If we can't use those, then that's even more $$$'s needed to be spent for the ugprade :(

webbiegareth · 02-04-2012, 12:45 PM

Also, in the meantime... I've heard to just use the standard rotors (not slotted etc), and "softer" pads so they won't chew the rotors as quickly and apparently are better at stopping the car. They don't last as long as regular pads though.

Is this true? And if so, what pads should I be using?

I was tempted to buy the Benxdix Premium pads, as they're basically 1/2 price at supercheap at the moment (buy one set - i.e. fronts - and get another set - i.e. rears - for free). I'm assuming these are harder pads though?

Mr Hardware · 02-04-2012, 05:03 PM

Hi webbiegareth,

I had an AU1. Worn discs and pads, braking was abysmal. I changed to decent discs and QFM pads - I would probably even say that braking became 'good'.

robertjp · 18-04-2012, 12:04 AM

i've done this but my brakes were not good, changed the master cylinder (AU3) and kept the AU1 booster, but now the brakes lock solid after several applications and require the master cylinder to be remoived so as to release the pressure. Is there anyone that can help as I am going nowhere excpet to Jolly Rogers and the bank.

falcon AU S · 28-04-2012, 11:00 AM

Hi robertjb did you manage to find a solution to your problem?
I was thinking of doing what you did but came across your post.

robertjp · 29-04-2012, 07:59 AM

yeah the brake booster from the AU1 has a longer pushrod length as compared to the AUII. Thus every application of the brakes would prevent the brakes from releasing, fixed by installing the proper booster.

roberts · 19-09-2013, 03:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by robertjp

yeah the brake booster from the AU1 has a longer pushrod length as compared to the AUII. Thus every application of the brakes would prevent the brakes from releasing, fixed by installing the proper booster.

fitting braided lines means no booster change needed

**mad2** · 04-11-2013, 12:16 PM

Hi, very informative - hava a AU3 here so will keep parts for a later swap

just one question re swaybar bolts thru chassis ... does there not need ta be a 'crush tube' ??

mif73 · 04-11-2013, 05:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mad2

Hi, very informative - hava a AU3 here so will keep parts for a later swap

just one question re swaybar bolts thru chassis ... does there not need ta be a 'crush tube' ??

Funny about that. I am just about to fit the calipers on my s1 to s2 upgrade.
The other problem is drilling the holes square so the exit hole lines up with the bracket holes.

If fitting a crush tube you would also need to drill the outside holes a bit larger for the tube to fit through and then weld it to the outside of the rail.

I used m8 x100 high tensile bolts and nylocs with loctite for now.
If it loosens i will install crush tubes 8.8mm id x 12mm od.

If you dont weld it then you would make the nut tight and bottom out but it probably wont clamp the rail tight enough.

The other issue is clearance for headers with a v8.

Mine has pacemaker tri y's and i have less than 10mm clearance to the bolt end spacing it with 2 washers on the outer side of rails.

Bunnings sell a long 8mm bit which can drill through the rail but use cutting oil and not too much speed as it is high strength steel.

Measure the rail width and space the bit with a socket etc so you dont drill into your exhaust etc.

Cheers.

BRADFORD000 · 07-11-2013, 05:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mif73

The other issue is clearance for headers with a v8.

M

Funny you should mention that.
My extractors had a huge hole in them where the bolt hits them.

falcon AU S · 29-04-2012, 08:21 AM

Are your brakes better now with the au2/3 combination of cylinder and booster? How is the pedal travel/feel now?

robertjp · 30-04-2012, 01:00 AM

heaps better, the feel without changing the master cylinder / booster was down right dangerous. Pedal travel is hard to judge as the booster is working to ease effort, but feel is good and will improve when the pads bed in.

99AUXR · 08-06-2012, 06:52 PM

Can anyone point me in the right direction. . the sway bar assembly I got didnt look exactly like the ops, Didnt come with the Big brackets to be bolted either side of chasis.

robertjp · 12-06-2012, 05:20 AM

You need to go to a wrecker and get the brackets, these need to be mounted on the chasis rail via drilling out the holes and getting the appropriate length bolts.

99AUXR · 17-06-2012, 12:37 PM

All done now just need brake lines, robert so your saying dont upgrade the master cylinder by its self? upgrade the booster and master cylinder, I dont get how the booster would affect brakes being left on. Bigger master cylinder pushes more oil down the lines for bigger brakes so is pretty much a must. However the booster only amplifies the pressure you exert on the pedal to the master cylinder? I know your right as you have felt the issue.

EDIT:Okay so the rod that connects the master cylinder to the booster is slightly longer and doesnt allow the compensating port to be opened.