Coolant and oil change

s1nge · 02-10-2008, 08:47 PM

Hey guys i got a relatively new ford focus LS LX 2006 model. I need to do a oil change, and i need to know what oil to use and plus what coolant to change also.

Lanyi · 02-10-2008, 09:46 PM

Canola oil, and not that cheap home brand stuff either....

5W30/40 Castrol edge... go all out. Any green coolant.

eXtremist · 02-10-2008, 11:27 PM

If your vehicle came with Red coolant from factory, stick to that.

Nulon Red Long Life Top-Up Coolant which comes pre-diluted.

If you ever decide to sell your focus, buyers will pick this up straight away and think you've had some sort of cooling issue.

BlackLS · 03-10-2008, 01:34 AM

Focus waterpumps are pretty particular on the coolant concentrate. You'll end up with a noisy waterpump if its not at the correct ratio. So just don't dilute whats already in there with plain water.

FOCUSonTHIS · 03-10-2008, 10:10 AM

I would stick the Ford brand coolant. In my Focus I did a radiator flush with it, and had no complaints with it. But I agree stick to the red coolant

Mullett · 03-10-2008, 12:09 PM

I'd use ONLY the factory coolant, unless you're going to do a complete flush and change...as far as oil goes, a good brand with the correct specs for the car. Out of curiosity, why aren't you getting it serviced by a mechanic? Doing it yourself will void the warranty...

-RM.

s1nge · 03-10-2008, 02:41 PM

haha canola oil, good 1. I'll get that castrol edge stuff tho, but the coolant has
got the factory red coolant, but I dont know what it's called and where to get it from. The green colant probably wouldnt be much difference, same stuff anyway right? (If i did a flush)

Mullett · 03-10-2008, 03:08 PM

The colour is a bit of a scam, it started with the Toyota Red coolant (which is awesome), and now most manufacturers are making a red one, but it's often the same stuff with different dye in it. The coolant DOES make a difference, and with the complexity of modern alloys in engines you have to make sure you get a compatible coolant. For the cost of doing it, and for such a rare occurence, I'd just get the proper stuff. No-one minds spending big $$$ on oil (which is done every 10k), but then buys crappy $10 coolant. Oil keeps things slippery, coolant stops the whole lot welding itself into a nice anchor. And the genuine coolant is probably good for 50,000+km...

-RM.

Fast Eddie · 03-10-2008, 03:35 PM

Quote: "Focus waterpumps are pretty particular on the coolant concentrate. You'll end up with a noisy water pump if its not the correct ratio".

Would this also apply to Focus LR models?

Mullett · 03-10-2008, 04:05 PM

Most likely...modern engines and modern alloys are very touchy...

-RM.

BlackLS · 03-10-2008, 04:17 PM

Eddie, As far as I know only the Duratecs. Apparently there's very tight tolerances in the LS waterpump, and uses the coolant to lubricate itself. That's the spiel Ford gave me anyway. The word "viscosity" was used a lot.

melbzetec · 03-10-2008, 04:21 PM

Stick with the factory coolant.

Don't use Castrol Edge.

Use a real synthetic. Mobil1. Or Motul 300v Power Racing

(Sorry...was that a bit direct??) :monkes:

BlackLS · 03-10-2008, 04:30 PM

I've swap between Castrol Edge and Fuchs 5w-30. Every now and then put some Lucas oil stabiliser.

Mullett · 03-10-2008, 05:15 PM

They're all good oils, but in a standard car, almost pointless. If factory standard mineral oil can do 15,000km to a service, then a good synthetic can do 30+, but who's going to leave an oil change that long? 'proper' synthetics are made from a pure polymer, like BelRay synth or Redline oils, most others are a mix of pure synthetic polymers and refined mineral oils (yep, refined mineral oils class as synthetic after a point), and Magnatec for example is about 2% polymer based synthetics (hence the 'magnetic' effect).

Oils are very, very complicated, and there's a lot of money in advertising them...so be careful you're buying a good oil, and not an expensive advertisment.

-RM.

Mullett · 03-10-2008, 05:20 PM

Oh....and on a side note, you can use motorbike oil in a car engine, but not the other way around. The difference between the two is that motorbike oils have stabilisers to stop the oil shearing between the gears in the gearbox (because bikes share a common oil)

-RM.

melbzetec · 03-10-2008, 07:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mullett

They're all good oils, but in a standard car, almost pointless. If factory standard mineral oil can do 15,000km to a service, then a good synthetic can do 30+, but who's going to leave an oil change that long? 'proper' synthetics are made from a pure polymer, like BelRay synth or Redline oils, most others are a mix of pure synthetic polymers and refined mineral oils (yep, refined mineral oils class as synthetic after a point), and Magnatec for example is about 2% polymer based synthetics (hence the 'magnetic' effect).

Oils are very, very complicated, and there's a lot of money in advertising them...so be careful you're buying a good oil, and not an expensive advertisment.
e
-RM.

This is a pet subject of mine

:

My wifes Audi A4 recently had the cylinder head overhauled by an Audi specialist (there was an unexplained oil leak at the rear of the cylinder head). The car has over 100,000km on it and I bought it new.

He discovered that a bypass valve had not been installed at the factory, and it's whole life the oil has been bypassing the oil filter!!! The mechanic was horrified.

He was then further amazed however. In his words, "he had never seen an A4 engine in such pristine condition". He told me..."no I'm serious. I pull these down all the time, and this is the best condition I've ever seen an A4 engine in. It looks virtually brand new. I don't get it"

100,000km with the oil bypassing the oil filter, yet the engine in as new condition. It should be stuffed. But it's not

Why?

The engine has only used Mobil 1 since its very first oil change.

It was the only thing protecting the engine

So don't tell me that good oil is pointless.

We pay $80 for a tank of fuel that lasts a week. Yet begrudge $80 for a top quality oil that protects your engine month after month after month, no matter what you throw at it.

Oils ain't oils.

And Mobil 1 is vastly superior to Castrol Edge, and Motul superior again (Double ester synthetic)

You get what you pay for, and it's the cheapest insurance you'll ever get

Mullett · 03-10-2008, 10:24 PM

Noooo, don't take me the wrong way on this...good oil is VERY important, as is the correct grade oils for the engine. I'll never dispute that. I'm just saying that you have to be sure you're getting what you're paying for...your experience sounds similar to mine, I ran my MR2 on BelRay semi-synth from when I got it (90,000km) to 160k and when I pulled the motor down at 160k the hone marks were still clearly visible in the bores. The oil was changed every 10,000km, the engine was reguarly used in competition, redlined at 8,000 and suffered 14psi of supercharged air everyday. After the first couple of changes, the oil came out in almost the same condition it went in...and kudos to Toyota for that motor, it was TOUGH.

-RM.

melbzetec · 04-10-2008, 08:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mullett

I'm just saying that you have to be sure you're getting what you're paying for...
-RM.

Then we are in absolute agreement!

: LOL

TITO · 04-10-2008, 02:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mullett

I'd use ONLY the factory coolant, unless you're going to do a complete flush and change...as far as oil goes, a good brand with the correct specs for the car. Out of curiosity, why aren't you getting it serviced by a mechanic? Doing it yourself will void the warranty...

-RM.

If it has green coolant stay with the same coolant and the same goes for red, Nulon coolant would be your safest bet as they do conform to the manufactures specs. The coolant just dosn't keep things cool it will control electrolysis that dose corode some alloys,and as one of the blokes mentioned it lubricates aswell.That cheap coolant is more than likely OK for all steel engines not the latest tech stuff. Coolants aint coolants either so dont scimp on it.
I have done both water and oil, never voided any warranty.

s1nge · 04-10-2008, 06:15 PM

ALright thanks for all ur help guys, much appreciated!

Harryin Ford · 10-10-2008, 12:56 PM

How about Nulon engin oil (5w-30)? did anyone try that?

TITO · 10-10-2008, 06:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Harryin Ford

How about Nulon engin oil (5w-30)? did anyone try that?

I would say there's nothing wrong with it.

BlackLS · 11-10-2008, 03:39 AM

No doubt better than what's coming out of the big 44gal drums at the dealers.

Harryin Ford · 13-10-2008, 01:05 PM

Yesterday, I tried some Mobil 1, the car runs smoother than before (I used castrol edge sport before)